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Le origini del tartan: storia di un’identità nazionale

Claudia MoschettiAprile 27, 2021
937 4.632 2 minuti letti

Tutti conoscono il tessuto di lana scozzese usato per fabbricare i caratteristici kilt, ma sono note a pochi le origini del tartan, non un semplice plaid, come si potrebbe pensare, ma un vero e proprio simbolo d’identità nazionale. 

Nella trama di fili colorati che si intersecano in un originale sett di quadrati e linee ripetute è impressa la storia della Scozia, un secolare susseguirsi di resistenza e amore patriottico.  

Le origini del tartan sono antichissime e, dunque, incerte. Secondo alcuni storici la produzione di tessuti simili al tartan risale alla cultura di Hallstatt dell’età del bronzo e alle popolazioni dell’Europa centrale che vennero poi in contatto con i popoli celtici.  

Il primo tartan scozzese certificato risale al III secolo d.C. Venne scoperto a Falkirk vicino al Vallo di Antonino: ha un semplice motivo a quadri di lana naturale chiara e scura. 

Per secoli, i colori usati sono stati pochi, due o tre al massimo, poiché i pigmenti venivano ricavati da piante, radici, bacche e alberi dell’area geografica di appartenenza. Per questo fu naturale associare a ogni regione – e ai rispettivi clan – determinati colori, che divennero quasi una “divisa” rappresentativa dell’area di origine.  

Con l’evolversi della tintura chimica, i tessitori introdussero modelli più elaborati con colori variegati e vividi, e man mano che i clan crescevano e si intersecavano tramite le unioni matrimoniali nuovi sett vennero creati per rappresentare le neonate famiglie.  

Con la crescente rivalità instauratasi tra i clan filoinglesi e i giacobiti delle Highlands, si sentì la necessità di creare un sett regolare che non fosse associato ad alcuna fazione specifica. Perciò, nel 1725 le Highland Independent Companies introdussero un tartan standardizzato di colore verde e blu, che divenne anni dopo il sett ufficiale del reggimento dei Black Watch, operativo ancora oggi. 

Tuttavia, dopo l’ultima insurrezione giacobita del 1745, il governo inglese decise di cancellare molti elementi tipici della cultura scozzese, data l’annessione dei territori al resto della Gran Bretagna: dopo aver eliminato il potere dei capi clan e posto fine ai diritti ereditari dei proprietari terrieri, qualsiasi capo di vestiario scozzese, tra cui ovviamente il tartan, venne dichiarato illegale dall’Act of Proscription del 1746, e così anche l’impiego della cornamusa o della lingua gaelica nella letteratura.  

La nuova legge fu applicata rigorosamente per quasi quarant’anni, fino alla sua abrogazione nel 1785, quando ormai la maggior parte dei tessitori era morta e con loro erano andati perduti i vecchi modelli di tartan.  

Per decenni sembrò che gli Highlander avessero perso ogni entusiasmo per l’abbigliamento tipico fino al 1822 quando il re inglese, Giorgio IV, visitò la Scozia per la prima volta dopo 171 anni. Sua Maestà richiese che i partecipanti alle funzioni ufficiali indossassero il tartan tipico della propria regione d’origine. Avendo perduto i modelli tradizionali, i tessitori dovettero inventarne di nuovi, riportando in auge l’abbigliamento nazionale, non soltanto per gli Highlander, ma per tutti gli scozzesi. 

Dopo la visita reale, furono scritti diversi libri che documentavano i tartan creati. La prima pubblicazione che elencava i modelli e ne mostrava le tavole fu il Vestiarium Scoticum, edito dai fratelli John Sobieski e Charles Allen Hay nel 1842. L’entusiasmo che generò questa pubblicazione aprì la strada ad altri libri sul tartan per tutto il XIX secolo.  

Ad oggi si contano circa 7000 sett di tartan esistenti, tutti registrati presso lo Scottish Register of Tartans, l’ente ufficiale addetto al suo censimento. Esistono anche i registri del tribunale di Lyon che riportano i sett associati ai clan, e uno speciale registro della famiglia reale britannica, che possiede una distinta etichetta legata al vestiario in tartan, inaugurata dalla regina Vittoria e dal consorte Albert, che amavano particolarmente la Scozia e le sue tradizioni. 

Claudia Moschetti 

Non perderti: Maria Regina di Scozia tra femminismo e politically correct.

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Claudia MoschettiAprile 27, 2021
937 4.632 2 minuti letti
Foto di Claudia Moschetti

Claudia Moschetti

Claudia Moschetti (Napoli, 1991) è laureata in Filologia Moderna. Ha insegnato italiano a ragazzi stranieri e scritto per un sito universitario. È attualmente recensora presso il blog letterario Il Lettore Medio e redattrice per il magazine La Testata. Dal 2015 al 2021 ha collaborato alla fiera del libro gratuita Ricomincio dai libri, di cui è stata anche organizzatrice.
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